Saturday, May 17, 2008

Day 8 - Donegal to Derry

At breakfast this morning (you guessed it, another huge Irish breakfast) the hotel was playing the Bee Gees classic soundtrack "Saturday Night Fever" on the PA system in the restaurant. I went for the Rice Krispies...

How deep is your love
I really need to learn
cause were living in a world of fools
Breaking us down
When they all should let us be
We belong to you and me

Then the waitress arrived to inform me of my hot meal options (there were several, as usual)....

I know your eyes in the morning sun
I feel you touch me in the pouring rain
And the moment that you wander far from me
I wanna feel you in my arms again

Seemed like it was taking longer than usual for the food to arrive. I went for more coffee...

And you come to me on a summer breeze
Keep me warm in your love and then softly leave
And its me you need to show...

Finally, the usual assortment of eggs, hash browns, bacon, sausage, and that... "pudding." Pudding like nothing that Bill Cosby ever advertised. I still couldn't figure out what that stuff was.

I believe in you
You know the door to my very soul
You're the light in my deepest darkest hour
You're my saviour when I fall
And you may not think
I care for you
When you know down inside
That I really do
And its me you need to show

Time for another glass of orange juice...

How deep is your love
I really need to learn
cause were living in a world of fools
Breaking us down
When they all should let us be
We belong to you and me

For the rest of the day, through over 400 miles of stunning Irish countryside, I would unavoidably hear the Bee Gees classic hit "How Deep is Your Love" (Which topped Billboard's Hot 100 list the day before Christmas in 1977 and stayed in the Top 10 for 17 weeks) playing over and over in my head.

Making a quick escape from the hotel, I was rewarded with some beautiful coastal scenery. My first stop was the Slieve League cliffs, which are the tallest in Europe. These pictures really don't do them justice. Like the Grand Canyon, the scale of the cliffs is difficult to take in.

The 2,000 foot high Slieve League cliffs.

I hiked up to a viewpoint for better photo ops of the cliffs. Looking back down at the road and the parking lot. Can you see the Ducati parked down there?

Having someone in the picture gives it a little better perspective.

From the cliffs, I started riding further north, hugging the coastline as much as possible. My Michelin map shows all of the scenic roads in green. My goal is to ride as many of the green roads as possible.

A church poised in the middle of a beautiful valley, somewhere in Donegal.

As I rode further north the land became more rugged and remote and the mountains taller.

One of my guidebooks says this of the Donegal Region:

Donegal is the most remote and perhaps the most ruggedly beautiful county in Ireland. It's not on the way to anywhere, and it wears this isolation well. With more native Irish speakers than in any other county, the old ways are better preserved here.

During this eighth day of my motorcycle journey, I would find this assessment very accurate. In the end, Donegal may have been my favorite part of Ireland. It seemed the further north and west I went, the more beautiful Ireland became.

The road approaching Glengesh Pass. The morning clouds were clearing and it was turning into a beautiful day.

Crossing Glengesh Pass, this was the view down the other side toward the coast. It was a very steep, narrow, and twisty ride down to the bottom. But luckily, no traffic coming from the other direction. I road down this fun little stretch of road into the town of Ardara, smiling inside my helmet and singing to myself...How deep is your love, I really need to learn, cause we're living in a world of fools...

Another beautiful day in Ireland...


There were brand-new lambs everywhere you looked. These were quite young and staying very close to their mother, who did not seem to like my taking their picture.

By the late afternoon I had covered a huge amount of territory all along the Donegal coast. I decided to take a detour onto the Innishowen Peninsula, even though it was late in the day. As the light began to dim, this beach came into view near the north end of the peninsula.

Finally, I arrived at Malin Head, the top of the Inishowen Peninsula and the northernmost point in Ireland. It was late in the evening and I had ridden for hundreds of miles without stops for lunch or dinner. But the clouds had cleared and the view was spectacular in the early evening sun. As I stood on the windy, frigid point, I realized that the next solid "land" to the north is the polar ice cap. I considered this for a moment, in awe of the beauty of this country.

Then I thought to myself...

How deep is your love
I really need to learn
cause were living in a world of fools
Breaking us down
When they all should let us be
We belong to you and me...

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