Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Day 2 - Kilkenny Castle and Kinsale

After a wonderful rest I was up early this morning to take the bus to Naas, outside of Dublin, to pick-up my motorcycle. Aladin doesn't arrive until Thursday so I have a few days to ride on my own before we head out together. As promised, Paul and Grace greeted me warmly and had the Ducati all ready to go.


Paul and Grace ready to see me off.

The first order of business was learning to ride on the left side of the road. I took my time with this, going slow for the first leg of the journey while I got used to the bike, the traffic, and navigating traffic circles in the "wrong" direction. Then there were the more "rural" Irish road hazards to avoid:


A farmer herds his cows down a rural road.

At Paul's suggestion, my first stop was Kilkenny Castle, home of the famous Butler family for almost 800 years. Hard to imagine having a family house that long...I guess it helps to be royalty. The Butler's were the Dukes or Ormonde and their castle dates from the 12th century. It has been fabulously renovated and makes a wonderful tour. For many people the highlight of the tour is the Long Gallery, a huge room (second longest in Ireland after the library at Trinity College) decorated with themes from the Book of Kells and adorned with portraits of various Butler family members and their associates. But for me the highlight was seeing the first flush toilet in Ireland, installed in the castle in honor of a visit from the King of England.


Kilkenny Castle

The grounds around the castle are now a beautiful park.


Facing east at Kilkenny

This view to the East used to be blocked by the fourth wall of the castle, until Oliver Cromwell arrived in 1649, set-up his artillery in the field where people now picnic, and laid siege to the castle. When he was finished there wasn't much left of the east wall. But on the bright side, the Butler's gained a grand view of the 27,000 acres they owned around their home.


The trusty Ducati parked at Kilkenny Castle

After the castle tour and a bite of lunch, it was time to head south to the coast. I found some wonderful back roads where I could get away from the traffic and build my confidence on the bike.


Bridge across the River Suir at Carrick-on-Suir

By the time I reached Kinsale, on the southern coast of Ireland, it was after 9:00 pm. I had no trouble finding a room and some good dinner recommendations and by 9:45 I was showered, shaved, and enjoying fish and chips (and another Guinness...) at a great local restaurant. Once again, sleep came easily.


The view of Kinsale from the road near Charles Fort.

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