Day 1 - Dublin

Before diving into the pictures, I should explain that this trip to Ireland was very spontaneous. About a week and a half ago I received an email from my good friend and fellow motorcycling enthusiast Aladin Abughazaleh. Aladin had reason to be in Dublin for business and wanted to take a few days off, rent motorcycles, and do some riding on the Emerald Isle. Would I be able to join him, the email inquired. After checking my calendar and rearranging a few business obligations, I booked a flight and lined-up a motorcycle from the same outfit Aladin was using.

It turns out that Motorcycle Rental Ireland is the only firm authorized by rent motorcycles in Ireland and they have been in business less than a year. But the owner Paul Rawlins and his manager Grace have built a nice stable of motorcycles of various makes and sizes. They arranged a BMW R1150GS for Aladin and a Ducati ST3 for me. And luckily for me, my schedule allowed me to arrive a few days before Aladin to get in even more motorcycling.

I decided to try and share a little bit of my travel journal along with a few pictures on this blog. Assuming I can get reliable Internet access in the evenings, I'll try to post a quick entry every day or two. You can click on any of the pictures below to get an enlarged view.

I arrived jet-lagged early Monday morning to a beautiful day in Dublin. It was sunny and warm and the city was very peaceful as it was a bank holiday. I arranged to go sightseeing in Dublin for the day in order to have some time to rest from the flight before mounting a motorcycle. I was staying in the hip (and touristy) "Temple Bar" neighborhood near Trinity College. The first thing I saw after stepping off the bus from the airport was a Starbucks. I suppose it shouldn't surprise me to see Starbucks everywhere, but somehow it still amazes me that this American invention has taken hold in Europe (and Ireland), where cafe society was invented, to such a great extent. Even stranger is that the Starbucks look exactly the same overseas. Identical menu, identical decor, and for the most part, identical baristas and patrons. If you were blindfolded and dropped into a Dublin Starbucks, you would never know you were not in the U.S....until someone began to speak.

Looking down the River Liffey in downtown Dublin. Check out that blue sky!!!

After dropping my bags at the hotel, I hit the town and crammed as many sights as possible into a single day of sightseeing. I spent a bunch of time just wandering the downtown area.

These guys were working very hard against a windy Dublin day.

After a nice long walk, I saw Trinity College, Dublin Castle, the Custom House, and Christ Church Cathedral. I even took in a bit of Cricket on the pitch at Trinity College.


The big highlight of the day for me (other than dinner) was seeing the Book of Kells at Temple College. The book is considered by many to be Ireland's greatest national treasure. It dates from the early 9th century and I found the entire exhibit about the making of the book amazing. They don't allow photos in the Book of Kells exhibit, but you can learn more about it here.

Architectural Detail of Christ Church Cathedral.

Finally it was time to check-in to my room and take a shower. A quick change of clothes and I was off to the nearest pub for some Irish Stew and a pint of Guinness. As expected, everyone in the pub was friendly, even the sober ones, and I had a great time watching the crowd and talking to the people around me. Then I walked back to my room and collapsed. It had been a long day.

Day 2 - Kilkenny Castle and Kinsale

After a wonderful rest I was up early this morning to take the bus to Naas, outside of Dublin, to pick-up my motorcycle. Aladin doesn't arrive until Thursday so I have a few days to ride on my own before we head out together. As promised, Paul and Grace greeted me warmly and had the Ducati all ready to go.


Paul and Grace ready to see me off.

The first order of business was learning to ride on the left side of the road. I took my time with this, going slow for the first leg of the journey while I got used to the bike, the traffic, and navigating traffic circles in the "wrong" direction. Then there were the more "rural" Irish road hazards to avoid:


A farmer herds his cows down a rural road.

At Paul's suggestion, my first stop was Kilkenny Castle, home of the famous Butler family for almost 800 years. Hard to imagine having a family house that long...I guess it helps to be royalty. The Butler's were the Dukes or Ormonde and their castle dates from the 12th century. It has been fabulously renovated and makes a wonderful tour. For many people the highlight of the tour is the Long Gallery, a huge room (second longest in Ireland after the library at Trinity College) decorated with themes from the Book of Kells and adorned with portraits of various Butler family members and their associates. But for me the highlight was seeing the first flush toilet in Ireland, installed in the castle in honor of a visit from the King of England.


Kilkenny Castle

The grounds around the castle are now a beautiful park.


Facing east at Kilkenny

This view to the East used to be blocked by the fourth wall of the castle, until Oliver Cromwell arrived in 1649, set-up his artillery in the field where people now picnic, and laid siege to the castle. When he was finished there wasn't much left of the east wall. But on the bright side, the Butler's gained a grand view of the 27,000 acres they owned around their home.


The trusty Ducati parked at Kilkenny Castle

After the castle tour and a bite of lunch, it was time to head south to the coast. I found some wonderful back roads where I could get away from the traffic and build my confidence on the bike.


Bridge across the River Suir at Carrick-on-Suir

By the time I reached Kinsale, on the southern coast of Ireland, it was after 9:00 pm. I had no trouble finding a room and some good dinner recommendations and by 9:45 I was showered, shaved, and enjoying fish and chips (and another Guinness...) at a great local restaurant. Once again, sleep came easily.


The view of Kinsale from the road near Charles Fort.

Day 3 - Kinsale to Kenmare and the Southwest Coast

Today was my first full day on the motorcycle and it was a great day for riding, but not a great day for photography. The sunshine of the last couple of days gave way to gray skies but luckily, no rain...so far. I spent most of the day exploring the isolated southwest Irish peninsulas, riding out to Mizen Head, the southwestern most point in Ireland. The land on the peninsula was windswept, stark, and beautiful.

Looking inland from the coast road.

Paul warned me before I left Naas that travel is slow in Ireland. He was right. The roads twist and turn and you are often lucky to average 40 miles per hour for any length of time. But the rewards are many. On a motorcycle, these roads are perfect!

Looking back across to the mainland from Crookhaven.

The beach near Brow Head. It was as cold as it looks. And there were kids at the far end of the beach surfing. Brrrr!!!

The view near Goleen, into Toormore Bay.

By the time I got back to Bantry Bay, the sun was shining and it was a beautiful day again. I decided to make a stop at the famous Bantry House on my way to Kenmare, my destination for the night.
Bantry House was built about 1700 and purchased in 1750 by Richard White, the Earl of Bantry. The White family are still the owners of the home, however the Earl title has left the family because of their inability to produce male heirs in prior generations. The house is decorated with furniture and art that the White family has acquired over the last two and a half centuries.

The beautiful circular gardens at Bantry House, complete with lawn tennis court and canons to protect against invaders...or unwanted tennis guests.