Bill Harrison's Travel Blog

Crested Butte - Day 3

2011-08-04T10:12:00.000-05:00

After a nice recovery day yesterday, we decided to tackle Scarp Ridge on Tuesday. It is such a beautiful hike, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Colin, Michelle, and Bob climbing up a field of wildflowers to Scarp Ridge.

Crested Butte - Day 2

2011-08-03T09:49:00.001-05:00

After an epic and exhausting hike on day 1, we took it easy on day 2, sleeping in and meeting-up with friends who arrived in Crested Butte on Sunday. In the afternoon we went for a short mountain bike ride just to stretch out legs that were sore from yesterday's 17 miles.

Bob and John riding on Slate River Road

Crested Butte - Day 1

2011-08-02T10:09:00.002-05:00

On our first day in Crested Butte we decided to take a long hike over Storm Pass (12,460 feet) and down Castle Creek. We started at the Mill Creek Trailhead and ended and Wilderness Streams, where my aunt and uncle Gail and Ralph Rash live along with their friends and cousins Jim and Kay Hibbetts.

It was a long 17 mile hike that took us about 10 hours. But we were rewarded with a home cooked meal at the end.

Jim, Ralph, and Bob near the start of the hike. Late season snows made for magnificent waterfalls throughout the hike.

Bob climbing a snowbank on the final push to the top of Storm Pass as Jim looks on.

I figured this would be my only chance to practice using my ice axe!

Bob and Jim at the top of Storm Pass looking down on the Castles with the Maroon Peaks in the background.

Good cell coverage at the top of the pass, so Bob took the opportunity to send a few text messages.

On the descent with the Castles in the background. We spotted a herd of about 300 elk on the other side of the valley and watched them as we hiked down.

Jim, Bob, and Ralph hike below the Castles on the way down from Storm Pass.

The aspens and wildflowers were blooming everywhere.

Jim stands next to some 6 foot tall bluebonnets on the hike down.

Finally we got home to Wilderness Streams. This is the view from Jim and Kay's house, standing on their front porch.

Dinner with the whole team. Thanks to Kay for the wonderful meal.

Postscript - The Price of Petrol

2008-05-28T09:22:00.002-05:00

If you are an American reading this and feeling sad about gasoline prices that are topping $4 per gallon, consider this. Each time I filled-up the Ducati it cost around 20 Euros. I tried not to think about this cost while I was traveling for fear of spoiling the fun of the trip. But when I got home I did the conversion. At just over $30 US per tank, gasoline was more than $7.50 US per gallon!

Day 9 - Derry to Naas

2008-05-17T19:53:00.014-05:00

Today would be my last day on the motorcycle so I was anxious to get up and out of the hotel early. I skipped breakfast, partly out of a desire to get in more riding and partly out of fear for the music they might be playing in the restaurant.

My goal for the morning was the northern coast of Ireland. Just before entering the city of Derry the night before, I had crossed over into Northern Ireland. But I was surprised to find that there was no perceptible border crossing. I never even saw the remnants of an old border post. All of the sudden I realized the speed limits were posted in miles per hour rather than kilometers per hour and the license plates gradually changed from the familiar European Union format to the yellow plates of the United Kingdom. A lot has changed in Northern Ireland over the last few years.

The first stop along this beautiful stretch of coastline was Dunluce Castle, just east of the town of Portrush.

Dunluce Castle was in a stunning setting, but I chose to skip the tour. Time was limited and with such a sunny day, I'd rather be riding the beautiful coast roads! :-)

The second stop on the "Causeway Coast" was the Giant's Causeway, a famously odd formation of rocks that forms Ireland's only World Heritage Site. None of the locals recommended the Causeway very highly, but I found it beautiful when I got there. Pretty touristy place, but the weather was fantastic and I got to take an outstanding hike along the cliffs that look down on the actual "Causeway."

Hiking along the Causeway Coast, looking west toward Portrush.

The big attraction along the coast is the Giant's Causeway, an amazing formation of basalt columns along the ocean's edge. I was lucky to visit when the weather was absolutely perfect. I'm told this happens infrequently along this stretch of coast.

There are two competing theories about the creation of the causeway. One, held largely by scientists, is that the columns were formed of molten basalt during the Paleogene period.

The other theory, held by more sensible people, is that the causeway was created by an Irish giant named Finn McCool so that he could walk to Scotland. Take your pick on which theory to believe...I know which one I'm sticking with.

The Giant's Causeway

The only picture I could get of the Giant's Causeway that didn't include people.

At the Giant's Causeway I experienced Irish friendliness firsthand. The currency of Northern Ireland is the Irish Pound, which is different than, but pegged to, the English Pound. As I was in Northern Ireland for only a day, it was my goal to avoid exchanging money there. So I used credit cards for hotels, meals, and petrol and all was well until I got to the Giant's Causeway. I drove up to the parking attendant with Euros in one pocket and Dollars in the other. But he would only accept Pounds so I was going to be forced to exchange money just to park. The attendant was very friendly and told me where to go to change money and allowed me to pay him on the way out rather than in.

So, after my wonderful hike I changed 10 Euros to Irish Pounds, suffering the ridiculous exchange rate and two-Pound minimum commission. What should have been about a four dollar parking fee was going to end up costing ten bucks...but what the heck. I walked out to the parking attendant with my two Pounds in hand and reminded him that I owed him the money. He winked at me, clapped me on the shoulder, and said "doan worry, mate. Be-yon yo-way."

And so the unbelievably friendly Irish would save me the cost of parking, but I would spend the next hour and a half trying to figure out how to spend a pocket full of Irish Pounds before I crossed back over the border to the Republic of Ireland. In case you are wondering, I ended-up spending it on a tomato and brie sandwich, a Red Bull, and an ice cream cone.

By this time it was well after noon and I still had a long way to go to get to Belfast, then on to Dublin, and finally to Naas to return the bike. It was such a beautiful day that I stuck to the coast road as long as I possibly could before turning inland toward the motorway and the fast route south. As I left the coast road, I took one last picture to say farewell to the beautiful Irish coast.

My final picture before turning inland and heading back to Dublin.

When Aladin and I were staying on Achill Island, Ann the innkeeper said goodbye to us with the phrase "Safe Home." Except in Ireland it sounds more like "Say-Foam." It took us a minute to figure out what she was saying but once we did, we decided we really liked that phrase. Aladin and I would use it from then on during our Ireland travels and in emails afterward. And in Northern Ireland, as I was crossing the beautiful Ulster countryside on my last day on the Ducati, each of the little villages I traveled through had signs posted at the limits of the village that said "Safe Home." This seemed particularly appropriate on a motorcycle trip where safety is always on your mind.

I made it back to Naas to meet Paul and return the Ducati later that afternoon, just missing the horrendous rush hour traffic in Dublin. In total I had ridden just under 2,000 miles. Considering that Ireland is only 300 miles long and 175 miles wide at widest point (its about the same size as the state of Indiana), riding 2,000 miles in this area may seem a little implausible. But the coast of Ireland is over 3,000 miles of jagged inlets and mountains. It is this that makes the place so special for a motorcycling.

Over the years, I have been lucky enough to ride motorcycles in many great places. Among them the Swiss and Italian Alps, the Fjords of Norway, the hills of Tuscany, and the islands of Greece stand out, not to mention many great trips throughout the beautiful Western United States. Before this trip I would not have listed Ireland as one of my top motorcycling destinations. Sure I wanted to visit to see the lush countryside, take in the history, drink the Guinness, and most of all, meet the friendly people. But after eight days and 2,000 miles on the back of a Ducati, Ireland would also become one of my favorite motorcycling destinations of all time.

Ireland is a country of nooks and crannies. Its scale is small and its beauty and history are packed densely. Despite this, one never feels cramped and there is still plenty of space left over for lots of friendly people. For an American, traveling in Ireland is a great contrast, especially if you live in the West where traversing large distances quickly is a part of any travel routine. In Ireland, the narrow roads and frequent villages force you to slow down and take things in at a calmer pace.

For the motorcyclist, this presents both an opportunity and a challenge. The remote corners of Ireland are best explored on a motorcycle, in my opinion. But riders should be prepared for a slower pace, narrow twisty roads, and frequent hazards like rain, gravel and sheep..sometimes all three at the same time.

Riding these roads will keep your senses alert at all times. As you navigate a difficult corner, the road will open and reveal a spectacular seascape, or a mountain lake, or an ancient castle, and you will smile under your helmet, breath deeply, and soak in the sights, smells, and sounds of this wonderful country.

And at the end of each day, you can be certain there will be a friendly crowd and a fresh pint of Guinness awaiting your arrival...where ever you choose to stop.

Day 8 - Donegal to Derry

2008-05-17T18:45:00.020-05:00

At breakfast this morning (you guessed it, another huge Irish breakfast) the hotel was playing the Bee Gees classic soundtrack "Saturday Night Fever" on the PA system in the restaurant. I went for the Rice Krispies...

How deep is your love
I really need to learn
cause were living in a world of fools
Breaking us down
When they all should let us be
We belong to you and me

Then the waitress arrived to inform me of my hot meal options (there were several, as usual)....

I know your eyes in the morning sun
I feel you touch me in the pouring rain
And the moment that you wander far from me
I wanna feel you in my arms again

Seemed like it was taking longer than usual for the food to arrive. I went for more coffee...

And you come to me on a summer breeze
Keep me warm in your love and then softly leave
And its me you need to show...

Finally, the usual assortment of eggs, hash browns, bacon, sausage, and that... "pudding." Pudding like nothing that Bill Cosby ever advertised. I still couldn't figure out what that stuff was.

I believe in you
You know the door to my very soul
You're the light in my deepest darkest hour
You're my saviour when I fall
And you may not think
I care for you
When you know down inside
That I really do
And its me you need to show

Time for another glass of orange juice...

How deep is your love
I really need to learn
cause were living in a world of fools
Breaking us down
When they all should let us be
We belong to you and me

For the rest of the day, through over 400 miles of stunning Irish countryside, I would unavoidably hear the Bee Gees classic hit "How Deep is Your Love" (Which topped Billboard's Hot 100 list the day before Christmas in 1977 and stayed in the Top 10 for 17 weeks) playing over and over in my head.

Making a quick escape from the hotel, I was rewarded with some beautiful coastal scenery. My first stop was the Slieve League cliffs, which are the tallest in Europe. These pictures really don't do them justice. Like the Grand Canyon, the scale of the cliffs is difficult to take in.

The 2,000 foot high Slieve League cliffs.

I hiked up to a viewpoint for better photo ops of the cliffs. Looking back down at the road and the parking lot. Can you see the Ducati parked down there?

Having someone in the picture gives it a little better perspective.

From the cliffs, I started riding further north, hugging the coastline as much as possible. My Michelin map shows all of the scenic roads in green. My goal is to ride as many of the green roads as possible.

A church poised in the middle of a beautiful valley, somewhere in Donegal.

As I rode further north the land became more rugged and remote and the mountains taller.

One of my guidebooks says this of the Donegal Region:

Donegal is the most remote and perhaps the most ruggedly beautiful county in Ireland. It's not on the way to anywhere, and it wears this isolation well. With more native Irish speakers than in any other county, the old ways are better preserved here.

During this eighth day of my motorcycle journey, I would find this assessment very accurate. In the end, Donegal may have been my favorite part of Ireland. It seemed the further north and west I went, the more beautiful Ireland became.

The road approaching Glengesh Pass. The morning clouds were clearing and it was turning into a beautiful day.

Crossing Glengesh Pass, this was the view down the other side toward the coast. It was a very steep, narrow, and twisty ride down to the bottom. But luckily, no traffic coming from the other direction. I road down this fun little stretch of road into the town of Ardara, smiling inside my helmet and singing to myself...How deep is your love, I really need to learn, cause we're living in a world of fools...

Another beautiful day in Ireland...

There were brand-new lambs everywhere you looked. These were quite young and staying very close to their mother, who did not seem to like my taking their picture.

By the late afternoon I had covered a huge amount of territory all along the Donegal coast. I decided to take a detour onto the Innishowen Peninsula, even though it was late in the day. As the light began to dim, this beach came into view near the north end of the peninsula.

Finally, I arrived at Malin Head, the top of the Inishowen Peninsula and the northernmost point in Ireland. It was late in the evening and I had ridden for hundreds of miles without stops for lunch or dinner. But the clouds had cleared and the view was spectacular in the early evening sun. As I stood on the windy, frigid point, I realized that the next solid "land" to the north is the polar ice cap. I considered this for a moment, in awe of the beauty of this country.

Then I thought to myself...

How deep is your love
I really need to learn
cause were living in a world of fools
Breaking us down
When they all should let us be
We belong to you and me...

Day 7 - Achill Island to Donegal

2008-05-17T17:43:00.009-05:00

Continuing our journey up the west coast of Ireland, Aladin and I rode back across Achill Island this morning. We stopped in a little fishing village long enough to take a few pictures of the boats on the calm morning waters.

There were always beautiful views along the coast, regardless of the weather.

When we arrived in Newport, it was time for me to say goodbye to Aladin. He was on a tight work schedule and needed to be in Zurich the following day for meetings. I had two additional days to ride the Emerald Isle. I continued north while Aladin headed back to Naas to return his motorcycle.

One final parting shot in Newport.

In the late afternoon, I came upon this country house perched atop a hill near the ocean. I figured it was someplace famous so I turned off the main road in hopes of going to visit, but the house was privately owned and the gates provided clear warnings to trespassers. Nice weekend place nonetheless.

It was much less fun riding without Aladin, but I made the best of it, continuing up the coast of the Connemara, through the town of Sligo, toward Donegal, where I planned to spend the night. When I arrived in Donegal in the early evening, a light rain began to fall and this was all the motivation I needed to go no further. I found a hotel on the main square in this beautiful but somewhat touristy town.

Like most such hotels, this one had a pub with good meals. I ate dinner (fish and chips with Guinness), read my tour guides, planned the following days journey, and waited for the band to start playing. I have been really enjoying traditional Irish music when I hear it in the pubs. While I was waiting, I walked around the town and saw the castle and cathedral, two major draws of this historic town. I called my grandmother and wished her a happy (Grand)Mother's Day, then called my sister, father, and some friends to let them know I was alive and well.

When I got back to the hotel, a guy was on stage getting ready to start playing. His first song was "King of the Road," following by a somewhat strained rendition of "New York, New York." The crowd was going crazy. Somewhat confused, I looked around and realized that I was surrounded by a large group of Irish senior citizens who were on a bus tour of the Donegal region. With walkers and canes they had made their way to the pub to hear all their favorite U.S. show tunes.

Time for me to go to bed...

Day 6 - Clifden to Achill Island

2008-05-17T16:50:00.019-05:00

We were greeted by a beautiful, sunny morning today. After another ridiculously large breakfast, Aladin and I were on our way to what would become a fantastic day of riding through some absolutely beautiful scenery.

Along the coast road northwest of Clifden.

Kylemore Abbey, built in the 1860s by Mitchell Henry, a wealthy Manchester businessman and later member of the Irish Parliament. Henry built the house as a gift for his wife after they had honeymooned in the area. Nuns, fleeing Belguim during World War I, took over the house and converted it into an Abbey. Today it is an exclusive private girls' boarding school.

Typical road along the west coast...narrow, twisty, and full of sheep!

Our sunny morning soon turned cloudy and windy but the scenery was still stunning.

We spent most of our day making leisurely progress up the west cost toward Achill Island. Achill (rhymes with "crackle") is a beautiful, mountainous island attached to the mainland via a short bridge. We rode, and then hiked, to a look-out spot at the top of island.

The view to the west end of Achill Island.

I got to use my cool new travel tripod for this shot.

Feeling a little closer to God up here...

More beautiful riding on Achill Island.

When we arrived in the village of Keel in the late afternoon, we started looking for a place to stay. A woman working in the local grocery store sent us to Joyce's Marian Villa, where Ann, the innkeeper, greeted us with tea and biscuits. The hospitality was beyond our expectations. Ann made dinner reservations for us and sent us to Moyteoge Head, on the western end of the Island, to watch the sunset.

On the road to Moyteoge Head, looking back toward the cliffs on the south coast of Achill Island.

Our sunset destination was this beach on the western end of the island. Finally some beautifully clear weather and nice light for photography.

The beach at Moyteoge Head.

Every time we stopped in a beautiful place, Aladin called his wife to tell her that he missed her and wished she could be with him to share the sights. Then he made me take photos of him talking to her on the phone (or leaving her a message) so they could share them later. What a great husband!

Aladin having a long-distance phone date with is wife Susie.

The cliffs of Achill Island.

We ended a nearly perfect day of riding with an outstanding meal and some great conversation. Doesn't get too much better than this!

Day 5 - Naas to Clifden

2008-05-14T17:14:00.010-05:00

Aladin arrived this morning and it is great to see him! He was packed and ready to go before I could get my tired butt out of bed and over to the motorcycle rental shop. We we on the road by late morning, making a beeline for Galway to ride the Connemara region, which Paul, the owner of Motorcycle Rental Ireland, says is the best motorcycling in the country.

Aladin and me (Aladin is the good-looking one on the left), posing with the bikes before leaving for the west coast of Ireland.

Wanting to cover some miles quickly, we rode hard for a few hours on the motorway to get to Galway as quickly as possible. Finally, around 3:30 pm we stopped for lunch, Aladin's first pub lunch since arriving in Ireland.

Aladin doing a little route planning during our lunch stop.

After a hearty Irish pub meal and we were back on the road, just in time to hit rush hour traffic in Galway...arrgh! Once we cleared the city, the riding was superb. We found some windy, scenic roads through a landscape that was dotted with lakes and marsh-like peat bogs. Ahead, toward the coast, we could see a beautiful range of mountains.

Our destination for the night was Clifden where, at the recommendation of Grace, the manager or the motorcycle rental shop, we had booked rooms at Abbeyglen Castle . The hotel did not disappoint although the opulence was probably wasted on two grungy bikers.

Aladin at Abbeyglen Castle. We had a wonderful meal and a great bottle of wine to celebrate the start of our short motorcycle trip together.

Day 4 - The Dingle Peninsula and The Ring of Kerry

2008-05-09T02:47:00.001-05:00

Today I was up early to attack the famous Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula. At the hotel I had a bowl of Rice Krispies at the breakfast bar before I realized that I was also supposed to order a hot breakfast. So I sat down to my first "Full Irish" breakfast, which consisted of the following:

One fried egg
Two big pieces of ham
Two hash brown patties
Two links of sausage
Two tomatoes
Light and dark pudding (I still don't know what this is but it sure did taste good)
Two pieces of toast and jam
coffee
juice

I could barely walk after that breakfast but I managed to eat most of it. No need for additional food until dinner!

The tour around the Kerry Peninsula, known universally as the "Ring of Kerry" is a beautiful drive that is supposed to take a full day. I took the advice of one of my guidebooks and rode it in the clockwise direction, opposite the prevailing tourist traffic. That decision paid off as I made great time down the twisty roads. Well before noon I had knocked off the Ring and was ready to head out on the Dingle Peninsula.

The view along the south coast of the Kerry Peninsula.

Frankly, I liked the Dingle a lot better. It has far less tourist traffic, is less commercial, and just has a great feel about it. Riding along, it reminded me a bit of the Oregon coast.

The problem with riding a motorcycle by yourself is that you never have anyone to pose in your pictures...except the motorcycle!

I stopped in the town of Kerry to mail cards to my family. Sorry Grandmother, your Mothers Day card will probably arrive a little late.

In the town of Inch there was a beautiful wide beach. I took the opportunity to stop for a nice walk. A bunch of kids were on the beach for surfing lessons. The water looked so cold.

As I left Inch, the surf school was heading out into the water, boards in hand, to apply what they had learned.

I like this sign, which I saw on my way out of the town of Inch.

Rural countryside on the Dingle Peninsula.

The roads on the Dingle were mostly one lane, some quite a bit narrower than this. This didn't pose much of a problem for the motorcycle but I felt sorry for car drivers when they encountered a bus or truck traveling in the opposite direction. The big vehicles have the right of way and cars must back up as far as necessary to make room for others to pass.

In the early afternoon my luck with the rain ran out. The rain that started lightly continued in intensity throughout the day.

I spent all afternoon wandering around the back roads of the Dingle in the rain. Finally, I came to a road that just ended at the ocean. I had no idea where I was and couldn't find the place on the map. I found a couple of teenage kids walking their dogs down to the water for a swim. I talked with them for a while about growing-up out here on the end of the Peninsula. They gave me directions back to the town of Dingle and I was quickly back on track.

Crossing Connor Pass on the Dingle Peninsula.

The road down the backside of Connor carved along the side of the mountain. It was one very narrow lane nearly the whole way down. No fun in the rain, but luckily I didn't encounter much traffic coming in the opposite direction.

Looking across Connor Pass. The Ducati performed brilliantly in the rain!

After finishing my riding on the Dingle, it was time to head back to Naas to meet Aladin. I arrived in Tralee, just south of Limerick, around 4:00 pm and still had about 300 kilometers to go to reach my hotel. Even though I was on major "N" highways, the going was still very slow and the rain continued throughout my ride. Eventually I reach a major "M" motorway and the pace picked-up considerably. It literally took three hours to go the first 200 kilometers and less than 45 minutes to travel the last 100 once I reached the motorway.

I arrived in Naas a little after 8:00 pm. The sun was still shining, the rain had stopped and I was mostly dry after my long ride. This was by far my longest day on the bike.

I'm writing these words and posting these pictures from the pub in my hotel. Its great people watching here. There is a traditional Irish band playing and people are singing...even the sober ones. I've been getting some funny looks since I'm the only guy in the pub with a laptop open, but you gotta take advantage of free WiFi where you can get it.

But now its time to shut down the computer and join my new Irish friends in a song...and another pint of Guinness. Good night.

Day 1 - Dublin

2008-05-07T16:11:00.001-05:00

Before diving into the pictures, I should explain that this trip to Ireland was very spontaneous. About a week and a half ago I received an email from my good friend and fellow motorcycling enthusiast Aladin Abughazaleh. Aladin had reason to be in Dublin for business and wanted to take a few days off, rent motorcycles, and do some riding on the Emerald Isle. Would I be able to join him, the email inquired. After checking my calendar and rearranging a few business obligations, I booked a flight and lined-up a motorcycle from the same outfit Aladin was using.

It turns out that Motorcycle Rental Ireland is the only firm authorized by rent motorcycles in Ireland and they have been in business less than a year. But the owner Paul Rawlins and his manager Grace have built a nice stable of motorcycles of various makes and sizes. They arranged a BMW R1150GS for Aladin and a Ducati ST3 for me. And luckily for me, my schedule allowed me to arrive a few days before Aladin to get in even more motorcycling.

I decided to try and share a little bit of my travel journal along with a few pictures on this blog. Assuming I can get reliable Internet access in the evenings, I'll try to post a quick entry every day or two. You can click on any of the pictures below to get an enlarged view.

I arrived jet-lagged early Monday morning to a beautiful day in Dublin. It was sunny and warm and the city was very peaceful as it was a bank holiday. I arranged to go sightseeing in Dublin for the day in order to have some time to rest from the flight before mounting a motorcycle. I was staying in the hip (and touristy) "Temple Bar" neighborhood near Trinity College. The first thing I saw after stepping off the bus from the airport was a Starbucks. I suppose it shouldn't surprise me to see Starbucks everywhere, but somehow it still amazes me that this American invention has taken hold in Europe (and Ireland), where cafe society was invented, to such a great extent. Even stranger is that the Starbucks look exactly the same overseas. Identical menu, identical decor, and for the most part, identical baristas and patrons. If you were blindfolded and dropped into a Dublin Starbucks, you would never know you were not in the U.S....until someone began to speak.

Looking down the River Liffey in downtown Dublin. Check out that blue sky!!!

After dropping my bags at the hotel, I hit the town and crammed as many sights as possible into a single day of sightseeing. I spent a bunch of time just wandering the downtown area.

These guys were working very hard against a windy Dublin day.

After a nice long walk, I saw Trinity College, Dublin Castle, the Custom House, and Christ Church Cathedral. I even took in a bit of Cricket on the pitch at Trinity College.

The big highlight of the day for me (other than dinner) was seeing the Book of Kells at Temple College. The book is considered by many to be Ireland's greatest national treasure. It dates from the early 9th century and I found the entire exhibit about the making of the book amazing. They don't allow photos in the Book of Kells exhibit, but you can learn more about it here.

Architectural Detail of Christ Church Cathedral.

Finally it was time to check-in to my room and take a shower. A quick change of clothes and I was off to the nearest pub for some Irish Stew and a pint of Guinness. As expected, everyone in the pub was friendly, even the sober ones, and I had a great time watching the crowd and talking to the people around me. Then I walked back to my room and collapsed. It had been a long day.

Day 2 - Kilkenny Castle and Kinsale

2008-05-07T15:58:00.002-05:00

After a wonderful rest I was up early this morning to take the bus to Naas, outside of Dublin, to pick-up my motorcycle. Aladin doesn't arrive until Thursday so I have a few days to ride on my own before we head out together. As promised, Paul and Grace greeted me warmly and had the Ducati all ready to go.

Paul and Grace ready to see me off.

The first order of business was learning to ride on the left side of the road. I took my time with this, going slow for the first leg of the journey while I got used to the bike, the traffic, and navigating traffic circles in the "wrong" direction. Then there were the more "rural" Irish road hazards to avoid:

A farmer herds his cows down a rural road.

At Paul's suggestion, my first stop was Kilkenny Castle, home of the famous Butler family for almost 800 years. Hard to imagine having a family house that long...I guess it helps to be royalty. The Butler's were the Dukes or Ormonde and their castle dates from the 12th century. It has been fabulously renovated and makes a wonderful tour. For many people the highlight of the tour is the Long Gallery, a huge room (second longest in Ireland after the library at Trinity College) decorated with themes from the Book of Kells and adorned with portraits of various Butler family members and their associates. But for me the highlight was seeing the first flush toilet in Ireland, installed in the castle in honor of a visit from the King of England.

Kilkenny Castle

The grounds around the castle are now a beautiful park.

Facing east at Kilkenny

This view to the East used to be blocked by the fourth wall of the castle, until Oliver Cromwell arrived in 1649, set-up his artillery in the field where people now picnic, and laid siege to the castle. When he was finished there wasn't much left of the east wall. But on the bright side, the Butler's gained a grand view of the 27,000 acres they owned around their home.

The trusty Ducati parked at Kilkenny Castle

After the castle tour and a bite of lunch, it was time to head south to the coast. I found some wonderful back roads where I could get away from the traffic and build my confidence on the bike.

Bridge across the River Suir at Carrick-on-Suir

By the time I reached Kinsale, on the southern coast of Ireland, it was after 9:00 pm. I had no trouble finding a room and some good dinner recommendations and by 9:45 I was showered, shaved, and enjoying fish and chips (and another Guinness...) at a great local restaurant. Once again, sleep came easily.

The view of Kinsale from the road near Charles Fort.

Day 3 - Kinsale to Kenmare and the Southwest Coast

2008-05-07T15:49:00.001-05:00

Today was my first full day on the motorcycle and it was a great day for riding, but not a great day for photography. The sunshine of the last couple of days gave way to gray skies but luckily, no rain...so far. I spent most of the day exploring the isolated southwest Irish peninsulas, riding out to Mizen Head, the southwestern most point in Ireland. The land on the peninsula was windswept, stark, and beautiful.

Looking inland from the coast road.

Paul warned me before I left Naas that travel is slow in Ireland. He was right. The roads twist and turn and you are often lucky to average 40 miles per hour for any length of time. But the rewards are many. On a motorcycle, these roads are perfect!

Looking back across to the mainland from Crookhaven.

The beach near Brow Head. It was as cold as it looks. And there were kids at the far end of the beach surfing. Brrrr!!!

The view near Goleen, into Toormore Bay.

By the time I got back to Bantry Bay, the sun was shining and it was a beautiful day again. I decided to make a stop at the famous Bantry House on my way to Kenmare, my destination for the night.
Bantry House was built about 1700 and purchased in 1750 by Richard White, the Earl of Bantry. The White family are still the owners of the home, however the Earl title has left the family because of their inability to produce male heirs in prior generations. The house is decorated with furniture and art that the White family has acquired over the last two and a half centuries.

The beautiful circular gardens at Bantry House, complete with lawn tennis court and canons to protect against invaders...or unwanted tennis guests.